History Visits
Middle Saxon (Anglian) Woman
7th to 9th century
A simple colourful costume accentuated by jewellery.
*This costume was put together in the mid 1990's. It was my best attempt at the time.
Ankle-length undyed linen dress with wrist-length close-fitting sleeves and round slit neck which fastens with hooks and eyes.
Ankle-length yellow linen with elbow length sleeves and round neck.
Brown wool 'conical' open-fronted with hood.
Hair
Possibly tied back or braided, visible at forehead and temples.
Rectangular narrow yellow linen stitched with blue linen thread.
Yellow linen narrow with 'tree of life' embroidered detail.
Iron penannular brooch. Wooden needle case. Wooden comb. Iron shears in a leather case. Circular leather drawstring pouch. Knife with a wooden handle in a leather sheath. Brass openwork disc brooch. Bead necklace. Brass arm-ring.
Comment:
During the 6th century there was an influx of Christian missionaries to this country. The result was a marked change in attitudes to clothing in the following centuries. The 'tube' dress was discarded and sleeved garments became common. Head-wear became almost compulsory. The fashion for hanging items off the belt is still very much in evidence.
The individual depicted here is of reasonable status - not high ranking, but not poor either. This is indicated by the colour of her clothing, jewellery and decoration.
undergarment ham, hacele
-
This under-dress is based on the simple 'T' shape.
-
It is actually made of fine cotton, but the weave is quite loose so looks like fine linen.
-
The sleeves reach to the wrist and are just wide enough for the hand to pass through.
-
The hems are folded over twice and stitched with running stitch in undyed linen thread.
-
The neck is round with a slit, meaning that the neck-opening can be very close-fitting (to keep out draughts).
-
I have put a facing inside the neck opening.
gown cyrtel, tunece
-
The dress is also a simple 'T' shape, with wide elbow-length sleeves.
-
This is made in a 'linen look' fabric, which I believe is polycotton.
-
The hems are turned over twice and again just running stitched, with a yellow thread.
-
The skirt has extra panels stitched in the sides for ease of movement. These panels are a bit short really, they should start about hip level, but I didn't have very much fabric left and had to make do with what I'd got.
-
The neck of this garment is round and wide enough to go over my head.
Dresses are commonly made of wool in this period and could be highly coloured and decorated.
Update 06/07/03 - I have had to add larger gussets in the sides of this dress as my bust has expanded. These are in a very slightly darker shade of fabric than the original.
cloak hacele
-
The cloak is shaped to fit the shoulders and provided with a hood.
I have cheated a bit with this cloak. I used a commercially available pattern (Very Easy Very Vogue - Misses Cape no.7110). Although it is slightly too full, it is a very near match to the hooded cloaks of the early period. If I was to make another one, all I would do is just make the panels narrower all round.
-
The fabric is a fluffy wool with a good nap, which means that it is more waterproof.
-
I made the hood double for warmth.
-
I stitched the seams on the machine and then went over them by hand with a decorative thread.
-
The hems are simply blanket stitched.
-
The cloak is fastened with a centrally placed iron penannular brooch.
I have pushed the straight front edges of the cloak, which would otherwise be hanging down at the front, over the shoulders of the model.
shoes scos, stæppe-scoh
-
My shoes are made in three pieces, with a sole and uppers.
These shoes were actually a pair of 'Spanish slippers' that I modified. I took out the fake sheepskin lining, made a pattern from it and replaced it with a thick wool lining. Between the lining and the sole I added insoles for a tiny bit of extra comfort, and I added a fleece insole on top. Even so I can still feel every pebble I tread on!
-
Both shoes are made the same with no shaping for left and right feet. They mould to the shape of the foot, with wearing.
-
The thonging around the edge is decorative on this pair, but could have been extended to make ties to hold the shoe on better.
On the left you can see how the shoe has buckled and folded in the 'arch' area where the foot is narrower than the shoe.
On the right you can see more of the shaping, the lining, the central seam and stitching.
head-covering scyfel, orel
-
This head-covering is made from tabby slub linen in a neutral colour which has a slight yellowish hint to it.
-
It is about 80cm by 40cm.
-
I edged the hems with a contrasting blue linen thread.
belt gyrdels
-
The belt is made from the same fabric as the gown. It is a long doubled over strip.
-
I embroidered a 'tree of life' pattern on the belt which taken from a book of 'celtic' knotwork. The technique I used for this is called 'laid couching' where long threads are stitched along the shape and then shorter threads are stitched over them.
-
The thread for the embroidery is also linen.
accessories
-
The cloak is fastened with a centrally placed iron penannular brooch.
-
The under-garment is fastened with a gold or gold-plated open-work disc brooch.
-
The necklace is made from glass beads string on a leather thong. The beads are alternating pinkish glass tubes and brownish 'braceate' types.
-
Also at the neck is a bone cross on a leather thong.
-
Attached to a cord belt underneath the embroidered one, are some tools:
-
a pair of iron mini shears in a leather case - this pair is from China,
-
a wooden needle case, which would contain possibly bone, iron or copper alloy needles - mine here is a tiny button box, I had from an Aunt who gave me some ivory buttons,
-
a leather pouch in the shape of a circle - mine is based on a Viking style from Hedeby. This would have held 'special' possibly 'magical' items.
-
Iron knife with wooden handle in a leather sheath - which I bought from another re-enactor.
-
I also used to wear a wooden comb with this costume.
-
-
Brass wire arm ring - made by a friend.
Resources:
-
Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, Olaf Goubitz, SPA uitgevers 2011
-
Dress in Anglo-Saxon England, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, The Boydell Press 2004